Demna’s Gucci Debut and Kate Moss Finale Mark Strategic Shift to Sensual Luxury

2026-02-28 companies

Milan, Saturday, 28 February 2026.
Wearing a 10-carat diamond-encrusted thong, Kate Moss closed Demna’s debut show, symbolizing Gucci’s aggressive strategic pivot toward visceral, body-conscious luxury to reinvigorate brand value.

A Provocative Return to Milan

The highly anticipated event took place on Friday, February 27, 2026, at Milan’s Palazzo delle Scintille, a venue transformed into an imagined museum populated by plaster recreations of classical Italian sculpture [2][3]. Titled “Primavera,” the show signaled a definitive departure from the house’s recent aesthetic, pivoting toward a style defined by “sensual minimalism” and body-conscious silhouettes [1][6]. While the runway featured high-profile appearances from Karlie Kloss—marking her first walk since 2023—and Emily Ratajkowski, it was the finale that underscored the brand’s aggressive new tone [2]. Kate Moss closed the presentation in a black sequined turtleneck gown designed to reveal a white gold GG thong set with 10 carats of diamonds, a direct nod to the provocative legacy of the Tom Ford era [2][8].

Reviving the Flagship: The Economic Imperative

This aesthetic overhaul serves as a calculated response to urgent financial realities facing Kering’s flagship brand. Gucci has witnessed a significant contraction in revenue, with sales plummeting from over €10 billion in 2022 to approximately €6 billion in 2025 [4]. This represents a decline of -40 percent over the three-year period, a trajectory the new leadership is under immense pressure to reverse. Kering CEO Luca de Meo, who was present at the debut, characterized the collection as a necessary act of corporate bravery, noting that “courage is coming back” and describing the show as a starting point for the brand’s revival [4].

Balancing Heritage with Digital Disruption

The debut was not without friction, as the brand navigated a clash between traditional luxury values and modern digital tactics. Leading up to the show, Gucci faced criticism for utilizing AI-generated imagery in its promotional campaigns, a move some detractors labeled as cost-cutting that potentially undermined the intrinsic value of human craftsmanship [7]. However, Demna defended his broader vision as the “coexistence of heritage and fashion,” asserting that the brand thrives only when these potentially opposing forces are in sync [5]. By blending inspirations from Sandro Botticelli’s Renaissance art with the raw sexuality of 1990s fashion, the “Primavera” collection attempts to re-establish Gucci as a culturally dominant force capable of triggering strong emotional responses from consumers [1][8].

Sources

Luxury Retail Kering